By Carly DeFilippo

Here at ICE, we’re thrilled to have a long-standing relationship with Dessert Professional, a revolutionary magazine that, as Hall of Fame inductee Florian Belanger explained, was one of the first publications connecting professional pastry chefs with peers in their field.

Florian Belanger laughs with alum and MC Zac Young, during his induction into the Dessert Professional Hall of Fame.

One of our favorite parts of this friendship is the opportunity to host the magazine’s annual Top Ten Pastry Chefs in America awards ceremony and reception. 2013 marks the 20th year of the awards, and both the outstanding desserts and star-studded festivities raised the bar for the occasion.

A layered pistachio and raspberry cake, meticulously prepared for the after party.

Alum Clarisa Martino was among the Top Ten Pastry Chefs selected for this years awards.

We were especially proud, this year, to have a number of alumni featured in the ceremony. First and foremost, Clarisa Martino, Executive Pastry Chef at Mesa Grill, was among the Top Ten to receive an engraved KitchenAid stand mixer bowl, commemorating her achievements in the field.

Pastry alum Zac Young, who joked that he is eager to receive his award next year, was the MC for the evening – and many remarked that if pastry ever falls through, he’ll have a career in stand-up comedy. Last but not least, Jessica Perkiss, Sous Chef at Gramercy Tavern, helped winner Nancy Olson prepare her renowned peanut butter semifreddo.

Alum Jessica Perkiss with Chef Nancy Olson of Gramercy Tavern

But alums weren’t the only ones to get in on the fun. A number of ICE staff and instructors, including the founder of our baking program, Nick Malgieri, and current Creative Director, Michael Laiskonis, mingled with their industry colleagues. And students volunteers rolled up their sleeves with the award-winning chefs, helping to plate and prepare their innovative desserts.

Creative Director Michael Laiskonis catches up with Chef Johnny Iuzzini. Alum Zac Young poses with founder of the ICE baking program, Nick Malgieri.

ICE students help winner Bill Corbett plate his vegan German chocolate cake.

All in all, it was a sugar rush to remember, and we look forward to seeing what the next twenty years hold for the field of pastry and baking.

ICE President, Rick Smilow, with Pastry Royalty: Jacques Torres, Michael Laiskonis and Francois Payard

By Carly DeFilippo

My first week working at ICE, I was invited to join other new staff members for dinner at Gramercy Tavern. Never having been in this legendary New York restaurant, I was thrilled by the attention to detail and the quality of the dishes I tasted—not least of all, by the dessert. Needless to say, I was impressed to learn that an ICE graduate, Jessica Perkiss was one of the pastry sous chefs at the restaurant, and I’m thrilled to share her story. 

Jessica, hard at work at Gramercy Tavern

What were you doing before you enrolled at ICE?

Before I enrolled at ICE, I received my Bachelor’s Degree from Boston University in Communication and worked in fundraising and development for a non-profit organization in Boston. It took me about a year to realize that a desk job wasn’t for me.

I quit the non-profit and worked a few jobs for a while. I met a woman who made dessert sauces – hot fudge, salted caramel, etc. – and ended up working for her for a summer, selling her sauces at farmers’ markets and doing tastings in specialty food stores. At one of the markets, I met the Pastry Chef of Sonsie, who is also an ICE alum. We chatted every time we would see each other at the market, and I picked her brain about working in a kitchen. Her job seemed fun, challenging and exciting. She inspired me to start baking and experimenting at home. After that summer, I knew that I wanted to do something in the food industry.

I moved to Philadelphia, worked the counter at a bakery, and enrolled in some cooking classes at a local restaurant school. Less than a year later, I decided to jump in — to go to culinary school in New York and give this new career a real shot.

What was it specifically that attracted you to pastry?

Pastry is this wonderful conglomeration of creativity and organization. There’s a specific type of person who makes a good pastry chef. I love working with my hands and making people happy. And really, who can frown when faced with a cookie or some ice cream?

Hand-crafting chocolates at Gramercy Tavern

Where was your externship? And where did you work between graduation and now?

I did my externship at Park Avenue (Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter) under Chef Richard Leach. It was my first experience working in a real kitchen. I then accepted a position as a pastry cook on the opening team at Maialino, where I met Gramercy Tavern’s pastry chef Nancy Olson. I ended up at Gramercy a year later, worked as a pastry cook for a year and a half and have been the pastry sous chef for a little over a year.

Briefly describe a day in your (working) life.

I don’t really have typical days anymore. I get to the restaurant around 7AM and check in with the team. If my cooks have a lot to do, sometimes I’ll give them a hand. I usually do some chocolate work for petits fours and anything extra that pops up. I manage quality control, payroll and ordering for the pastry kitchen. (I share those responsibilities with the other pastry sous chef). I spend a little bit of time with the cook working lunch service. Once 2PM hits, the kitchen can get pretty crowded. I try to find a project that doesn’t take up a lot of space. I also head up the cheese program with another sous chef, so a few times a week I portion cheese, have cheese tastings or update menus and information to educate the staff.

Unmolding chocolates in Gramercy Tavern’s pastry kitchen

What might people be surprised to learn about your job?

It’s a lot more about organizing a team and delegating responsibility than cooking at this point. Also, my ability to be thinking of 17 different things at once has improved ten-fold.

When you were a student, did you ever think you’d be doing what you’re doing now?

Never. When I was in culinary school, I thought I’d be working at a bakery and finalizing a business plan to open my own shop. I never imagined myself working in a restaurant. But when you find a teacher and mentor as brilliant and gracious as Nancy Olson, you just kind of go with it. She has taught me (and probably 100 other cooks) how to be a better cook, manager and overall human being.

Where would you like to be in five years?

In five years, I would love to own a little shop or be on my way to owning my own place. I want something small and manageable. I’ve seen what a career in the restaurant industry in New York can do to your life and your body. I’d really like to find myself in a position where I can have a family and still be able to maintain a career.

In ten years, I’d like to imagine that I’ll wake up, take my kids to school, walk to my shop in the late morning, do some paperwork, help some guests, meet with my baker and store manager, go to a yoga class, pick up my kids from school, make dinner and spend time with my family. That’s the dream.

Want to know more about pastry at Gramercy Tavern? Join Jessica’s boss, Chef Nancy Olson at ICE on Wednesday, June 5th, as she presents the noteworthy desserts of this legendary restaurant.

By Carly DeFilippo

As we gear up to launch our new Techniques and Art of Professional Cake Decorating program on May 2nd, we are very excited to share one of Chef Toba Garrett‘s cake and icing recipes.

Almond Paste Cake

Tools: 5 or 6 Quart Mixer

Yields: 2, 10” cake layers or 3, 8” cake layers

 Ingredients:

• 9 oz (255 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
• 6 oz (170 g) almond paste
• 24oz (680 g) granulated sugar
• 6 large eggs
• 1 ½  tsp almond extract
• 12 fl oz (340 g) whole milk
• 18 oz (510 g) cake flour
• 1 ½  Tbsp baking powder
• ¾  tsp salt

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (175-177˚C).  Vegetable spray and parchment line three 8” (20.32 cm) cake pans.  Set aside.
2. Cream the butter, almond paste and sugar for 4 minutes.  Stop, scrape the bowl, and cream for 60 seconds more.
3. Add eggs, one at a time, to the creamed mixture.  Beat in the almond extract.
4. Sieve together the flour, salt, and baking powder.  Alternately add the flour mixture and milk to the creamed mixture.  Ladle the mixture into the baking pans.  This is a thick batter.
5. Carefully smooth the batter with a metal offset spatula.  Hit the pan against the counter to burst any air bubbles.
6. Bake in the center of the oven for 45 minutes or until the cake slightly shrinks and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
7. Cake can last for 3 weeks in the refrigerator if wrapped well and can be frozen.

A buttercream frosting cake featured in Toba Garrett’s book, “Professional Cake Decorating”

FRENCH VANILLA BUTTERCREAM

Tools: 5 or 6 Quart Mixer

Yields: 2 ½ to 3 lbs (1.13 to 1.36 kg)

Ingredients:

• 12 oz (340 g) of granulated sugar
• 6 fl oz (177 ml) whole milk
• 1½ Tbsp (3/8 oz) all-purpose flour
• ¼ tsp (1 ml) salt
• 1 Tbsp (15 ml) pure vanilla extract
• 3 fl oz (85 g) heavy cream
• 1¼ lbs (57 kg or 568 g) unsalted butter (cut-up)

Or, for a larger quantity:

Tools: 20 Quart Mixer*

Yields: 10 to 10.5 lbs (4.45 to 4.76 kg)

Ingredients:

• 3 lbs (48 oz or 1.35 kg) of granulated sugar
• 24 oz (710 ml) whole milk
• 6 Tbsp (90 ml or 1.5 oz or 38 g) all-purpose flour
• 1 Tbsp (15 ml) salt
• 2 fl oz (57 g or 59 ml) pure vanilla extract
• 9 fl oz (266 ml) heavy cream
• 5 lbs (2.27 kg) unsalted butter (cut-up)

*Recipe can be multiplied 5 times for a 60 quart mixer.

Instructions:

1. Make custard by heating milk and sugar over a double boiler until sugar crystals dissolve.  Remove from heat and add flour and salt and whisk until flour is incorporated.  Place over an ice bath until the custard has slightly cooled.
2. Pour custard mixture in mixer bowl with paddle attachment.  Add cut-up butter and heavy cream.  Mix on LOW speed to fully incorporate ingredients or until mixture starts to thicken.
3. Mix on NEXT highest speed until mixtures starts to look light and fluffy.   This can take 7 to 10 minutes or longer if making larger batches.
4. Store and refrigerate buttercream in an air-tight container.  Freeze for up to 2 months.

Note:  If the buttercream curdles, it will just take a longer time for the butter to warm-up.  Continue beating until the butter softens and the mixture looks light and fluffy.

© 1995, 2007 Toba Garrett, all rights reserved

By Carly DeFilippo

ICE grad Leigh Koh Peart (Culinary Management and Pastry & Baking Arts ’08) had an dynamic career in the music industry, but something wasn’t quite right. She moved across the world to study at ICE, which led to externships and work opportunities with some of the industry’s top bakers and pastry chefs. Today, she manages an extraordinary custom cakes business out of her home in London.

What were you doing before you enrolled at ICE, and what inspired you to change careers?

I was working in Singapore at the time, running event logistics for MTV music events in Asia. It was great fun but I was ready to learn something new and see more of the world. I always had a love for baking and wanted to take it to the next level. I also wanted to learn how to manage a food business. So I picked the ICE program because I was able to do both concurrently. It was quite intense but really fun, I learned a lot and made such good friends from around the world.

Where was your externship? And what have you been up to since graduation?

I did two externships. The first one was at Financier Patisserie, where I helped to produce their daily range of beautiful French-style pastries. Then I realized I wanted to learn more about the art of cake decorating, so I applied for an externship at Ron-Ben Israel Cakes, which was an amazing experience and inspired me to start my own cake business.

I moved to London after my externship at RBI Cakes. I worked as a pastry chef in Michelin-starred Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s Sketch in Mayfair, London. I learned so much working alongside high-caliber chefs, but knew that life in a restaurant kitchen was not what I wanted in the long term. I decided to start my own cake business, Craft Cakes, where I currently make bespoke cakes, teach cake decorating classes and host parties in London.

Describe a typical work day.

I work from home mostly, so I start the day by answering emails or ordering ingredients, and then go on to bake and decorate cakes due for delivery or prepare for classes. I also trawl the internet for new techniques or products for cake decorating all the time. Sometimes I get a bit naughty and sneak off for a lazy long lunch with a friend at a hot new restaurant in town.

What might people be surprised to learn about your job?

It is as fun as it looks! The best part is the flexibility of being self-employed. I can find the time to pursue other culinary adventures, such as running my own supper club. Please check out Two Hungry Girls when you are next in London! We specialise in creative Chinese cuisine.

Five years ago, did you ever think you’d be doing what you’re doing now?

I always had the idea of opening my own cake shop or cafe. I am still working towards that goal, slowly but surely! I’d also like to write my own cookbook or be a cake and baked goods consultant to companies in the F&B industry. Anything to do with cake, basically! It is a life-long obsession.

By Carly DeFilippo

When we hear the word “start-up”, typically what comes to mind is a small, forward-thinking, creative company in the technology sector. But in the food world, start-up ventures are equally exciting, innovative…and risky. That’s why ICE instructors Kathryn Gordon, Jeff Yoskowitz, Jessie Riley and Alan Someck created Food Start Up Help, a consulting service for food entrepreneurs looking to launch a new business.

Jeff Yoskowitz, Jessie Riley, Kathryn Gordon and Alan Someck

Where did the idea for Food Start Up Help come from?

Jessie: I got the idea from watching Chef Jeff and Chef Kathryn repeatedly help students with various projects; alumni would also come back for their help. I thought they should formalize their knowledge into a consulting service, since there is a clear demand for bakery-related, start-up guidance.

What is each of your experience with starting a small food business? 

Jeff: I have started a pizza restaurant, a wholesale bakery, a line of boxed petits fours and am currently a minority partner in a start-up frozen muffin batter company. I’ve also benefited from the experience of managing a start-up kiosk, restaurant and catering company. In addition, I was the Pastry Chef of a bakery that expanded into a second retail location, and through that experience learned what not to do in that circumstance.

Kathryn: I’ve worked for some “mom & pop” food service operations, which were underfunded. That’s a very painful situation to be in. I’ve also worked for the three highest grossing restaurants in the US and trained at two 4-star restaurants, which is about as different as you can get from start ups. Previous to working in Pastry, I received an MBA in Finance from NYU, so I’m also able to bring a business perspective to clients’ challenges.

Jessie: I grew up in a family that loved to cook, and early food exposure allowed me to develop a good palette. Combining that with training in a 3-star restaurant, work as a private chef and time working with two bakeries in France, I learned to create unique and delicious recipes for clients. I have also spearheaded food industry events, and am able to share those organizational skills with clients.

Alan: I’ve had over 25 years experience operating restaurants and starting a variety of related businesses. This has helped me understand some of the key factors that make an entrepreneur successful in this very tough industry. My strengths lie in my ability to assess the viability of a concept and assess the strengths an individual has and the areas in which he/she may need some help. I can also offer entrepreneurs a strong network of reliable, talented hospitality professionals who can help support a project and help them develop a comprehensive, practical business plan.

Are there any particular projects you are currently working on that you are particularly excited about?

Jeff: There’s one project in particular that Alan and I have been working on for several months. It’s an energy bar that is going to be distributed nationally. It’s really exciting to see how all of the components are coming together.

What are key concepts any new food entrepreneur needs to grasp?

Alan: Have a clear vision of your concept, or you cannot differentiate yourself from the competition or write a viable business plan.

Jeff: A realistic budget and adequate funding are key for a start up to survive. Also get the advice of experienced professionals (and listen to them), especially if you don’t have years of experience behind you.

Kathryn: You won’t generate profits if you don’t know and control your food costs; it’s pointless to sell great tasting food at a loss.

Jessie: Know how you’re going to produce your food product, because otherwise your operating costs may eat up your profits.

What are some surprising things you’ve learned since starting FSUH?

Kathryn: I love working on our free weekly blog magazine and visiting a wide range of businesses.  It’s evolved into a handbook for how-to-start-a-food-business. Some of the people we’ve interviewed have been brutally honest – about their own failures, lessons learned.  An entrepreneur can save a lot of time and money by reading the blog.

Jeff: I agree with Kathryn. Working on the blog and visiting all of the different types of food businesses – and discovering people’s varying approaches to them – has been incredibly interesting. I believe it is keeping me current on equipment, packaging, methods and sales trends that are very important to my profession.

How has your involvement with ICE influenced or supported this new project?

Kathryn:  We have access to a diverse group of alumni, and everyone we’ve asked has contributed to our blog magazine. I think that’s great. There’s a vibrant community of food entrepreneurs out there. We think we can help them, and they’re helping us – and others – by sharing their secrets of success.

By Carly DeFilippo

It’s our first full week of classes post-Sandy, but students in the Culinary Arts program are more than making up for lost time.

Chef James Briscione taught an impromptu demo on pork cracklins.

Culinary students mastered signature dishes by Thomas Keller, including this salmon tartare tuile.

Hand-rolled pizzas were a highlight of the week’s bread courses.

Perfecting an American classic: juicy beef burgers.

In the pastry kitchens, students whipped up “Chelsea rolls”, topped with cinnamon, sugar and currants.

If you’re a student, let us know what you’re most proud of cooking this week! Send your pictures (with descriptions) to blog@iceculinary.com.

Jeff Parnell, a recent Pastry Arts grad spent a day working with one of his favorites chefs, ICE Creative Director, Michael Laiskonis for a photo shoot taking place here at the school. They were charged with getting seven perfectly plated dishes out in a 2 hour timeframe.

What was your first impression of Michael the first time you worked with him in a kitchen?
Jeff: I was amazed at how professional he was. The first time I worked with him was for the James Beard 25^th anniversary party and that is where I learned that this chef has a plan. It is so nice to walk into a kitchen and know the chef’s expectations. It makes me perform well.

What is your favorite dish you’ve made with Michael?
Jeff: The thing that sticks out most actually wasn’t a planned dish. We were making a red velvet dessert at the James Beard event and had a few leftover ingredients that Michael turned into a beautiful dessert. It was incredible not to see anything go to waste and instead be turned into something delicious.

What inspires you about Michael?
Jeff: A lot of chefs are driven by passion and Michael seems driven by curiosity. I’ve asked him questions that he wasn’t sure about and I know he goes and looks them up right away. It makes total sense why he wanted to go from chef at Le Bernadin to an instructor. He is great at it!

What is next for you?
Jeff: I am working to gain as much experience as I can so I can continue to grow my skills in the kitchen. Once Michael was making a sauce for his dessert and made it in the form of a poached egg. When I asked him why he was doing that, he said because it is harder than making a sauce. I love hearing these nuggets and they remind me that there is always more to learn in the kitchen.

Last night, ICE hosted the 19^th annual awards ceremony for the Dessert Professional Top Ten Pastry Chefs in America. ICE Creative Director, Michael Laiskonis awarded the winners which included Sally Camacho of WP24, Craig Harzewski of Naha, Sandro Micheli of Daniel, Marc Aumont of The Modern, Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar, Angela Pinkerton of Eleven Madison Park, Damien Herrgott of Bosie Tea Parlor, Nathaniel Reid of Norman Love Confections, Jean-Marie Auboine of Jean-Marie Auboine Chocolatier and Chris Hanner of The School of Pastry Design.

The evening featured a walk around tasting of desserts from these talented chefs and was sponsored by E. Guittard Chocolate and KitchenAid. Leaving on a sugar high, guests packed the house and were eager to sample a dish from each celebrated chef. Some of the delicious highlights are captured below.

Congratulations to all of the 2012 Top Ten Pastry Chefs!

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As important as culinary innovation may be, it is also important to recognize the classic desserts that place such new ideas in context. Michael Laiskonis, creative director at ICE held a class on Friday where iconic dishes were studied, deconstructed and rearranged with new flavor combinations and presentations as homage to the original.

The recipes included Tarte Tropezienne, Paris-Brest, Saint-Honoré, Financier, and Crème Brulée. The four hour class was action packed with students mixing, baking, tasting and plating. To see more classes from Michael Laiskonis, check out our schedule and see below for some eye candy from Friday’s class. Enjoy!

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This week, students had the opportunity to cook with Master Chocolatier and Executive Pastry Chef, Jean Marie Auboine as part of the Center for Advanced Pastry Studies (CAPS) series here at ICE. This is an ongoing program of continuing education courses for working pastry and baking professionals taught by visiting chefs and pastry artists from around the world.

Auboine’s shop is based in Las Vegas, though he teaches and consults all over the world. For some background, he was a finalist Meilleur Ouvrier de France Chocolatier 2007, named “Best Chef of the Year” from Mexico’s Vatel Club in 2008, won 5^th place in the 2005 World Chocolate Masters and he was named “Best Pastry Chef of the Year” by France’s respected Champèrard Guide in 2003. His mastery in chocolate at the 2005 American Chocolate Masters secured him a first-place victory and an invitation to participate in the World Chocolate Masters in Paris, where he earned the competition’s coveted Press Award.

Thrilled to work with such a renowned pastry chef, the students learned unique techniques ranging from sugar pulling to achieving temperatures for perfected caramel. They made an assortment of delicious treats such as praline paste, chocolate bars, soft salty caramels, flavored marshmallows, gummy worms and sugar candies. When discussing what they learned over the course, the students were all in agreement that learning the science behind sugar was the most fascinating.  As was learning from the French!

Check out some of their work: More…